Arc de Triomphe, L'Orangerie, Musee d'Orsay

We awoke to another forecast of rain later in the day, but, also to the sun peeking through the clouds. So after a light breakfast, we, against the advice of our doorman who thought we should take the Metro, walked down the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triomphe. It was a 40 minute walk and a bit of a disappointment to see, as we had been forewarned, that the stores and many restaurants could have been found in any major city. Not nearly as elegant as I had hoped. But it was fun to see the Arc coming closer as we walked. However, when we arrived and went down to the tunnel under the busy road that brought us to the monument, we found that no one was allowed to go up amidst the preparations for Veterans Day tomorrow. And...the nice day was turning cloudy, windy and threatening! We started to leave, when Art noticed people on the top so back down we went, my knees complaining all the way, flashed our Museum passes and, due to my trusty cane, were directed to the lift! Up we went to great 360 degree views of Paris. Took lots of pictures and really enjoyed the experience...then, down we went and took our first trip on the Metro ( thanks to Julie for sending us her left over tickets). We took line 1 to Concorde station, exited and walked to The museum L'Orangerie to see Claude Monet's Water Lilies.

What a remarkable setting...two large, oval rooms holding 8 panels inspired by the water garden at his home in Giverny. Monet donated the paintings to France after the First World War to give Parisians a peaceful haven. You'll have to see them yourself to experience the effect of these large panels on the psyche. Unfortunately for me, today the museum was crowded...often friends have told me that they were there with just a few quiet others! But lovely nevertheless. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed.

We then walked about 10 minutes via a pedestrian bridge across the Seine to the Musee D'Orsay...the one I had been looking forward to the most because it is in a magnificent building that was an old train station and has a wonderful collection of impressionists. We had a nice lunch in the museum's cafe then spent several hours viewing the paintings and sculptures. We left hoping we will return again before we leave. Walked through the Tuileries on the way back to our hotel with a slight detour to Place Vendome - home of fancy hotels and jewelry shops (saw a pair of diamond and ruby earrings for 13,600 € but decided to leave them for someone else :). Time for an afternoon nap.

Took Metro to the Reed restaurant for dinner. Another good suggestion from both Trip Advisor and Foder's. Very small, as in 6 tables, quaint little place.   The owner is the chef, waitress and hostess (came from Canada 20 years ago and, after working as a chef in several places, opened the restaurant a year ago. Art had a tomato and herb tart and Osso Bocco and I had Risotto with sage pumpkin and Parma. Both were excellent. Tartin for dessert was shared and excellent as well. Had an interesting time trying to buy Metro tickets with an information agent who didn't speak English and a non-English speaking young French man who showed us how to use the ticket machine with a combination of charades and a few words of English...like 'charge' to pay. We are beginning to get the hang of the system and made it back to the hotel easily. We found that the Internet is out so will hopefully post this tomorrow. Only 2 more days when we'd like to stay another week :)

Arc de Triomphe, L'Orangerie, Musee d'Orsay

Sunday

So...amazingly, we both overslept and and then found that the Internet, which went down last night, was still out and no one knew when it would be back up. After a quick breakfast (we were just in time to still have breakfast), we walked to the Pont Neuf and crossed to the Ile de la Cite. Checked out where the Vendettes de Pont Nuef Seine cruise boats leave, so we know where to go when we take the cruise tomorrow, took pictures of another couple and they took one of us, and walked the length of the island past Notre Dame to the Deportation Museum. Marilyn and Bob had recommended it to us after their Trip last year. A very moving experience...this very austere monument to the 200,000 French people who had been deported by the Nazis and complicit Vichy government was enhanced by the hall dedicated to the 76,000 who had died. The walls contained quotes with the one over the doorway saying. Forgive but never forget. All 76,000 names are engraved on the walls of the Shoa Museum ( much like the names of Czech Jews on the walls of a synagogue in Prague).

When we left the memorial, we crossed the bridge to the Ile St Louis, wandered the lovely streets and shops - including our first taste of a Macaron. Not as impressed with these cookies as so many others are :). Finally crossed back to the Right Bank and wandered the streets of the Marais - the traditional Jewish section since the 13th century. Today it is a multi-cultural area with a significant Orthodox Jewish community, a large gay community, and a Chinese community. We were meeting a guide fron the DiscoverWalks group who was to lead us on a walk through the Marais describing its history and pointing out important buildings. Since we're were early, we stopped in a tiny neighborhood cafe for baguette sandwiches and a glass of wine.

We met Justine at 230 and along with 4 women ( a mother and adult daughter, a woman from Germany, and a Chinese woman). We spent an enlightening 2 hours with Justine who was delightful, engaging and knowledgeable. At the end of the tour, she took a group picture for their Web site (see above) answered any last questions and walked us to the Pompadou Center...a strangely modern building dedicated to modern art .... Justine helped us to find the location of the restaurant where we had reservations for dinner (just a couple of blocks from the Centre Pompadou. Wonderful afternoon.

Dinner tonight was at yet another Trip Adviser recommended restaurant 'L'Ange 20' on a tiny narrow street near rue Beaubourg. We arrived early and had to wait in the cold for 15 minutes until they opened ;(. But. Oh the wait was worth it! We had the best meal of the trip ( Art said that his duck was the best he ever had!). We shared une carafe de vin rouge ( Bordeaux ) and a goat cheese salad, I had Cod and Risotto (again). And we shared a wonderful piece of Mango Cheesecake. A lovely young couple from England who were celebrating their 1 st wedding anniversary, sat next to us in the close quarters typical of a french resturant. we really enjoyed chatting with them and the owner, over our meals. A real winner of a day, so to celebrate, we walked back to our hotel 30 minutes on a cold clear night! We think that we walked about 8 miles today!

Deportation Memorial, Il de Sainte Louis, Le Marais

the downer was to find, when we returned, that the Internet was still out! :(
Pictures for the day

2012-11-11 Deportation Memorial, Ile de St. Louis, walking tour of Marais

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